RE: My new leveling scheme
I try to follow the KISS principle. Lynx Levelers are easy, reliable, and have no moving parts to fail. I'm sure your jacks work fine but it seems more complicated than it needs to be.
KJ
RE: Severe engine miss while towing - '99 Tahoe
When is the last time you changed the fuel filter? A plugged filter would starve the injectors and cause a severe lean condition.
KJ
RE: Pro Series SC Weight Distribution Hitch?
I have no experience with the Sway pro SC. But, it seems to basically perform the like the Equal-Izer hitch. The bars set in the cradles and when the tongue is lowered the downforce on the bars creates friction to dampen sway. The main difference with the Reese and the Equal-Izer is the Reese system uses a pad of friction material (brake pad) to interface with the metal spring bars.
The Pro Series would probably work very well for the length of trailer you're expecting to buy.
KJ
RE: New to this - need help from the experts
We have a 2002 Jayco Qwest 324G. We had an issue with a roof leak in the front where the aluminum and rubber roof meet. The dealer fixed it, but the next year the butyl caulk shrunk and it leaked again. I put Eternabond on the seam and it's never leaked again. Also, I had goofy brake problems that I had to track down, but that is now fixed too.
Both of these are problems that can be experienced on ANY RV. But, aside from these two things we've been very pleased with the quality and reliability of our Jayco.
KJ
RE: Rear end sagging to much
It took me 8.5 years(off and on) but finally after many doubts and thoughts of giving up I am done. It feels great.
Now some simple math, minus your research. My pin weight is 2405 empty. I add springs that takes off roughly 1K lbs. That leaves me more or less at 1400k lbs. give or take. You mean to tell me thats to much for the truck........I have pulled heavier loads as a former ranch hand in deep south Texas and the truck was fine. It's simply the pin weight I am trying to fix!
Yes indeed, congratulations on EARNING a college degree. That is very admirable that you pursued that achievement until it was completed. Many people try, give up, and never go back to finish.
Now, for the truck question. Adding stiffer springs to the truck WILL NOT take off 1000 LBS. That is simply not possible. The only way you can decrease pin weight is if you were to put a BUNCH of weight at the rear of the 5er, using the 5er axles as a fulcrum, and lift the pin up. However, that is not really advisable since that will put undue stress on the rear axle of your trailer. Also note that the 5er hitch will add an additional 200+ pounds to your pin weight.
The only thing that the stiffer springs will do is to decrease the amount of flex in the spring arc and thus minimize how much the truck squats. Air bags would perform a similar function. Maybe the tech at the spring shop was simply trying to say the springs will increase your payload by 1000lbs?
You came to the board and asked for opinions on how to level your truck. New springs or air bags was the consensus solution. It appears you've made up your mind you're going to get new springs. You also claim to have hauled heavier loads with this truck and so you have no reservations pulling this 5er with it.
The only thing myself and others were attempting to point out is that when the 5er is hooked on you are quite possibly going to be loaded over the truck's GVWR. If you choose to disregard this there is nothing that anyone else can do. The manufacture set limits to ensure that vehicles are used within safe operating limits of the mechanical systems. Yes there is a fudge factor in those limits to give the engineers a margin of error, but the question remains : "do you want to push that limit"?
My final word of caution would be to make sure your rear axle bearings are in good condition. At the 268,000 miles you listed in your signature they've obviously seen a lot of revolutions. Also, if you've pulled these "heavier loads" in the past, it sounds like they've seen a lot of pressure. My only concern is that you pull the load safely and avoid potential mechanical failures.
Good luck.
KJ
RE: Suggestions for type of oil-new truck
I bought my truck with 970 miles on the odometer. I changed the oil immediately with 5W30 Mobil 1 full synthetic and I haven't looked back over the last 49,000 miles. In your warm Florida climate you could use 10W30, but the primary recommendation is 5W30, so I'd say go with that.
RE: Prodigy - Intermittant Overload Message
This happened to me and it ended up being a bad magnet...
Part of my efforts included cleaning and lightly sanding (220 grit) the magnet mating surface of the drum. I also lightly sanded the magnets themselves to knock down some of the high spots. The other thing I found, when adjusting the brakes, was that the shoes were setting WAAAYYY off the drums. I don't really know that this had any effect on the OL message, but I can say that once everything was properly adjusted I found the braking performance was significantly improved.
KJ
RE: My 6.0L gasser doesn't seem to be up for the task
You guys who say the gears and tires are the problem are 100% correct.
I pulled my 315s off the truck and put a set of 245s on it from my work van then hooked up the trailer and it was a WORLD of difference. My trans converter lock up in tow mode was reduced to 55mph which was easier to achieve and maintain not to mention the I cruised at 55mph at 1900-2000 rpms and getting 8.9 mpg
Well, you found the problem, now you need to fix it.
Here is a 488 gear set from Randy's Ring and Pinion. Notice these gears are designed to be used with your 4.10 differential carrier. That is very important. When shopping for a locking differential for my truck (:M stinkin' open differential :M) I've found there are differences between carriers for 4.10 and below and 4.56 and up gear sets.
One other thing you should do if you're going to change gears: look in your glove box for the code G80. If it's there, that means you have the OEM Gov-Lock locking differential. If it's not there, this would be a great time to add a locking differential to your rear end.
KJ
RE: Hard Starting Diesel -- Help Please! RESOLVED! See pg. 3
Looks like it's all fixed! Two new batteries ($94 each) and a $20 to the kid who put them in for me and my baby's as good as new!
Yep, that sounds about right. My experience is that by 5 years of age batteries weaken and by 6 years they are all but gone. Did you do a load test on the OEM's or just replace them? Either way, I'm glad you're back in business.
I've noticed my '04 6.0L gasser doesn't seem to spin quite as quickly as it used to. I'm going to pull the terminals soon and give them a cleaning, but I'm guessing that the batteries are most likely nearing the end of their life. Also, since I've had a sedan as my daily driver the truck has spent most of it's time setting. So, I would guess that lack of frequent charge will take it's toll on them as well.
KJ
RE: Rear end sagging to much
Hey guys I have a 96 F-250 4x4 4 door short bed Diesel. I have a 08 Montana 5ver that weighs just under 12K lbs empty. When pulling, the rear end of the truck sags way to much for my liking. The truck could take some more weight but not much more....
What is the GVWR of your truck? I'm going to guess 8600#. What is the pin weight of the 5er? The general rule of thumb would be 12K X 25%, so about 3,000# :E Have you weighed the 5er to verify the pin weight?
I don't want to sound like an alarmist, but I'm guessing you're probably over the weight ratings for your truck. Yes, you could add air bags to level the truck and it would probably work. However, that will not change the fact that your truck will be over weight.
I have no reservations loading a vehicle right up to it's rated capacity. Actually, just a shade over (maybe a couple hundred pounds) probably isn't a big deal since the engineers give some fudge factor for ratings. But to me, it sounds like you're probably WAY over your truck's rated capacity and that's where things get dicey.
KJ
RE: GM Medium duty trucks will not be sold to Navistar
Here's a novel idea........instead of selling off assets why not Eliminate Brand Parity?!?!?!?!?! GM has done this to some degree with the elimination of Oldsmobile, but they could stand to do more.
Why do they insist on having both Silverado's and Sierra's? Colorado's and Canyon's? Savanna and Express vans? They are the same trucks, a few minor differences in trim, and a different badge on the grill.
Why no do this? Create one entity, GMC, and all truck chassis vehicles: vans, mini-pickups, 1500-3500 pickups, and MDT would all fall under that one badge. Give each truck 3 or 4 different trim levels to satisfy buyers and call it done. If GM did this, they would be the #1 selling truck by combining the sales of the two makes.
I've said this before, but I think a logical division of vehicles for GM would be:
GMC = Trucks
Chevy = general family vehicles (sedan, minivan, X-over, etc)
Pontiac = performance division
Buick = Upper level sedans
Cadillac = Upscale sedans and cruisers
Maybe CAFE standards and other government junk have something to do with not separating the divisions. To me, it's seems prudent to streamline vehicle lines like this and let each brand concentrate all efforts on what they do best.
KJ
RE: Prodigy - Intermittant Overload Message
I am getting an intermittant OL indicator on the controller. When applying the brakes, the controller will start to work, then OL flashes, and then controller works again. Sometimes OL stays on when braking, and brakes don't work, other times every thing is normal.
Start looking at the trailer from the 7-pin plug all the way back to each wheel. This sounds like you have a wire, somewhere, that has rubbed through the insulation and it is grounding out.
RV's are notorious for cheap wiring. Usually, they will run a single, 14ga + and - wire to one wheel, then daisy-chain from there to each of the other 3 wheels.
I was getting the same errors at one time. I finally solved it by installing buss bars for both + and -, and running individual lines to each wheel. I also replaced the 7-pin plug to ensure that all contacts were good there. Then I removed each brake drum to inspect, clean, and adjust all four of them. After all of that, my OL errors finally went away! :S
I know that's a bunch of work, but the last thing you need is failing brakes.
KJ
RE: End of another season.....most memorable experience.....
How about you? What was your most memorable experience this summer?
Coming home from work every day, staring at the camper and saying to myself "geez, I really wish we had the time to go camping" :(
Just like Cubs fans, my montra is "there's always next season" :B
KJ
RE: How do they know...
As to your original question, there is a line of code in the computer that tracks engine hours/RPM/vehicle speed and a few other parameters and determines based on its program when it is best to change the oil.
Don's on the right track. Below is a quote from Mechanical Engineering Magazine:
The Oil-Life System compensates for different driv-ing styles and conditions. The math model involves computerized monitoring of engine revolutions, operating temperature, coolant temperature, oil temperature, and other factors to calculate the rate of engine oil degradation and predict when it should be changed. Rather than depend on fixed oil change schedules that may not be suitable for all situations, the monitoring system customizes oil change schedules based on the vehicle's engine and transmission type, as well as on an individual's driving habits.
I use only Mobil 1 Full Synthetic in the wife's '02 Pontiac Montana and my '04 2500HD. The OLS warning on the 2500HD usually trips around 5,000 miles, although I'm not really sure how long it's been since I last changed it. I've been using a more fuel efficient car as a daily driver and have only put on about 3,000 miles this year :h
I just changed the oil in the van last week. The OLS light didn't come on for nearly 10,000 miles :E :E :E :E I last changed the oil in December '07 before we took a 3,000 mile trip to Delaware and back. I've routinely checked the oil in that time period and it has maintained well, only needing to add maybe 1/2 quart. It kind of spooks me to leave in oil that long, but Mobil 1 claims 15,000 mile protection. I guess I'll put myself in the hands of these engineers :S Is that really a safe thing to do :h
Just for grins, I should have sent a sample of that 10,000 mile oil to Blackstone Labs just to see exactly where it stood.
KJ
RE: Do you disconnect battery during storage??
Not only do I disconnect the battery but I also remove the battery.
I then put the battery in my shop, clean the terminals and check the water level. It goes on a trickle charge from time to time thru out the off season... T-10
Same here. This is the best way to ensure the battery lasts as long as possible.
KJ
RE: WOW
Tonight I got an unexpected call, from my sister in law...
"Jerry, your camper is 3/4 missing!" Apparantly it burned nearly to the ground about 3 hours after I dropped it off from the last trip of the season. I did have a problem where the power wasn't working when hooked on battery only, but just for the last trip. I called General RV about it, and they said most likely bad battery connections. However, the battery level lights in the camper still read full, even when nothing else worked.
This should be a word of warning to everyone. If something electrical doesn't seem to be working properly FIND OUT THE CAUSE AND FIX IT. This is not an indictment of you Alesis. I'm sure we can all point to something that we knew wasn't working properly but we let it go until we got around to fixing it. But this should be a strong reminder that if something electrical doesn't seem right it needs to be fixed or disabled ASAP. Unfortunately, you found out the hard way the consequences can be disastrous.
KJ
RE: What Hitch and sway control does everyone use?
Hey all, Was wondering what type of hitch and sway control everyone uses.
I pull my 34' TT with an Eaz-Lift round bar 1K/10K hitch with Reese Dual Cam (original style). I don't get any sway but I do get the usual 18-wheeler push. Aside from that, everything works as advertised. Last fall I had to make a panic stop on wet pavement....and my TT brakes failed at the same time :E. The whole rig stayed in a straight line with a hint of getting crooked. I'd say the Dual Cam works very well for me. :)
KJ
RE: How long are you going to keep your current travel trailer?
Probably for quite a long time. I've eyeballed :E :E :E new trailers, especially 5ers with front bunk areas. But then I slap myself and wake up to realize our TT will be paid off in 13 months, maybe sooner. The idea of having the title in hand and debt free is just far too nice to take on a huge, new 5 year loan.
Also, when we bought this TT it was WAYYY more than what we needed (1 kid at the time, 1 on the way). We have since added boy #3, so we now have 3 of the 4 bunks full. Maybe I was more insightful than I realized :h :B
The one negative of this trailer is the "living" area could stand to be bigger. However, the nearly paid off aspect of this trailer outweighs the WANT for more elbow room. The TT is nice, it meets our basic needs, and it's not killing our bank account so........we're keeping for as long as I can see down the road.
KJ
RE: "Pool Boys" , gentleman farmers and Gardeners rejoyce!
My dad had a '76 El Camino. He loved that crazy thing. It had the "camper" package which included a SB 400 and a Turbo 400 Tranny. He finally parked it in the late '90s with somewhere over 250,000 miles (speedometer was broken for about 4 years) when he thought the engine "sounded tight". He finally relented to selling it this year. The guy that bought it hooked up the jumper cables, turned the key, and it started on the first try!!!!!!!! Dad's gut sank when it ran thinking he could have gotten a few more years out of the old beast.
The only downfall was that vehicle was on the 1970's GM vehicle weight reduction program. Translation.....it was a monstrous rust bucket.
KJ
RE: is anyone worried about buying now?
Hey guys and gals. Is anyone worried about buying with the economy the way it is now? Most trailer sales places here dont even seem like they care if they sell a leftover trailer or not. I would think they would want move some inventory.
No.....because my TT will be paid off in 13 months ;) When we bought this rig, we tried as best we could to figure in sleeping, storage, and living needs so we wouldn't get caught up in the trade up game. Yes I'd love a new TT or 5er with all the new amenities, but when it comes down to it, we pretty much bought all the trailer we need. So, I'm just going to keep what I have and I'll have the title in my hand soon!
KJ
